Thursday, December 15, 2011

One Thousand Ninety-Five Curves

The second last stop on my trip, Chiang Mai ended up being one of the best. On the third day I decided to spend some time with elephants at the Save the Elephants conservatory, where elephants make the transition from their former jobs as loggers to their new more humane one - performing tricks with hoola-hoops for tourists. The ride to the conservatory was a hazardous one. As we drove further from the city and into the mountains and forest the roads became more treacherous. As we approached a steep hill with an unpaved path full of deep gouges, I unbuckled expecting to hike the rest of the way. Instead my guide kicked the truck into 4x4 and began the uphill ascent and I proceeded to get violently tossed around the cabin. You know those commercials you see when a truck is being driven over ridiculously harsh terrain to show how capable it is? You scoff because most trucks never leave the pavement right. Not in Southeast Asia.

I was less excited to ride an elephant as I had been to ride a camel. Mine was named Olla and she did whatever she wanted despite my commands. Elephants work primarily on verbal commands with reward (bananas) and punishment (getting whacked) as incentive. Olla cared for nothing but eating and would stop every 8 seconds or so to eat grass or demand a banana. Unlike their African cousins, Asian elephants have a pronounced back bone which makes staying atop them difficult and uncomfortable; I fell off once nearly into a river. We rode through beautiful forest, across rivers, up steep hills - elephants can handle anything. They're extremely playful as well and let you touch and mess around with them however you like. Our trek led us to a waterfall where we all bathed Olla. She proceeded to spray mud all over herself immediately after (keeps the bugs off). My guides ended up being really cool which was a relief because I was only tourist on the trip. Pics to come.

The next couple days I spent hanging out with a Londoner I met named Kate. A painter and a poet, Kate was interesting to me because of her unshakeable philosophy on life which embodied many ideals I personally aspire to (sometimes). Over discussion of relationships (intimate and non), love, fidelity, and social xenophobia, among other things, I discerned her raison d'etre to be the safeguarding of her independence. She would tolerate no shackles around her legs. In a relationship she expected absolute trust and had no tolerance for jealousy, which would be a shackle and restrict how she behaved. Kate had zero sympathy for such petty human qualities and would stroke no man's ego if it meant compromising her integrity and actions. It was a mature, lofty outlook for a twenty-two year old and I admired how she held to it. I wondered whether I could ever fully overcome the vices of jealousy and ego the way she seemed to.

On my final night in Chiang Mai I took in some Muay Thai boxing. I'll only say that the highlight was a bout where they brought six amateur fighters into the ring, blindfolded them, and let them wail on each other, every man for himself. It sounds stupid, and it was, but I dare anybody to not smile when the referee continually gets pummeled because the fighters have no idea who they're hitting.

Today I hit the road for Mae Hong Son, my last stop. There is one road leading here and it takes you through the mountains for six-hours - a neverending journey of bends and hairpin turns. The Thai girl with braces sitting next to me informed me that their are 1095 curves between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son. I came very close to throwing up at one point but the van made a stop just in time and my stomach recovered. Another girl was not as lucky. I may just fly to Bangkok...

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